WHY WE CURATED IT:
The importance of Must de Cartier Tanks is often overlooked… instrumental in saving Cartier 50 years ago when the boom of post-WWII France faded, and with it, demand for luxury. At the same time, cheap mass-produced quartz watches were flooding in from Asia. Cartier’s solution? Make accessible versions of the (otherwise full-gold) iconic Tank Louis but in gold-plated 925 silver, with Swiss quartz calibres. This runaway success kept Cartier’s watch business afloat, unlike much of the European industry. This version is in the SM size, with a “Column Dial”, lauded as one of the most unique Tank dial variations. Vintage aficionados love the on-brand Roman numerals, arranged not around the dial but in two minimalist, symmetrical columns, each flanked by 4 raised golden rails. A very modernist graphical riff on Cartier classicism. Can you think of any other watch that does markers with this verticality and rhythm? We can’t.
CONDITION:
8.5/10, with light hairlines and scuffing mostly along the brancards. Hands, original unreplaced crystal, and original “Swiss-only” dial are clean. Lovely rainbow patina on parts of the case, coveted by vintage connoisseurs. Can be removed in minutes upon request but it’d be a shame as it developed naturally over decades! Caseback engravings/hallmarks deep and crisp. Original strap used but still plenty usable. Original Cartier buckle has light hairlines. Movement in excellent health and quartz-accurate.
DIMENSIONS:
20.5mm width excl. crown
28mm length incl. lugs
5.8mm thickness
15mm lug width
Visual dial width ~14.5mm
Wrist in photos is 15.8cm
CRYSTAL:
Mineral glass
CASE:
925 silver, 20 micron gold-plating
WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, per vintage watches
STRAP:
Original Cartier strap and buckle (14mm)
CALIBRE:
Cartier Cal. 057, 2-hander quartz
COMES WITH:
Watch, Cartier strap, Cartier buckle, Cartier pouch
TERMS OF SALE:
Please see our stories Highlight entitled “Terms” on our Instagram profile. Thanks!
